Tuesday, September 2, 2008

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Miscellaneous Catchup

Latest Hare & Forbes catalogue turned up in the mail box today - no particular surprises in there (other than it being a bit thinner than usual). Always fun finding woodworking catalogues and magazines in the letterbox :)

- Apparently the latest Triton saw is currently winging its way to me - perhaps tomorrow (subject to the whims of the courier). It will be very interesting to see this latest saw and how it compares to the saw it is replacing.

- My review of the Pro Drill Press Table is now in the hands of the editor of Australian Wood Review, so hopefully it passes muster. Not sure which issue it will be in, but I’d guess the next one.

- I was thinking about celebrating the 1st year of Stu’s Shed with a bit of a BBQ, but it now turns out that my Holmesglen Tafe course (Introduction to Triton Woodworking) is running this weekend coming. Bummer for the BBQ, but the course is enjoyable, and the money never goes astray. I’ll have to give more thought to what to do (and when) to mark the occasion.

- The 30th video (and last to come out in the site’s 1st year) is currently in editing - the assembly process of the Pro Drill Press Table.

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router bits used for box-making

router bits used for box-making
This month we are detailing a couple of router bits used for box-making. There are more than just a couple that can be used in the whole genre, including ones for wooden hinges, for template carving the box itself, and obviously joints- dovetails and the like.

The first is used during assembly of the box, to insert the base. There is nothing overly complex about the concept - the bit cuts a groove around the bottom of the box to a controlled depth and width. Into this can be inserted a simple flat base which is the thickness of the slot, or it can be more elaborate using a flat bottomed cove bit (or a rebate bit) to effectively create a raised panel to fit the slot.

The bit is manufactured by Carb-i-tool exclusively for the Gifkins Dovetail Jig. It is boxmaking cutter #1 in their catalogue. (www.gifkins.com.au)

The second cutter is quite interesting. It is simply a small, solid carbide spiral bit, which is used to produce the smoothest finish possible while splitting a box from its lid.

Shown here to give you a sense of scale. It is a 1/4″ bit, so either a 1/4″ router, or a 1/2″ with a reducing collet will be required. It is also highly advisable to use this bit in a router table, and take multiple passes until the lid is cut free.

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Router Bits Basics A

A router bit is a tool for woodworking giving a quality finish to woodwork. It cuts wood providing a way to give a clean and even a decorative edge to woodwork. The following is some basic information about router bits to get you started in your woodworking efforts.

The Parts of a Router Bit

Here are the there main parts of a router bit:
1) The shank- the part of the router bit that is inserted into the collet (the sleeve of the router).
2) The cutting edge- this part cuts and removes the wood. They are available in several sizes and shapes.
3) The pilot- the guide for the router in order to make a correct cut. It can be an extension of the shank or a ball bearing attachment.

The Different Kinds of Router Bits
While there are over 50 router bit profiles, here are the four basic types of router bits:
1) Grooving Bits- These bits make a groove in the piece of wood. This type of bit is commonly used for street address signs for homes. Different types of grooving bits include the V-Groove, the Round-Nose and the Straight Bits.
2) Joinery Bits- Router bits that help make several different types of joints. This type of router bit includes the Finger Joint, the Drawer Lock, the Rile and Stile, and Dovetail Bits.
3) Edge Bits- Bits used to create different-shaped edges in woodwork. Examples of these types of bits include the Beading, Flush, and Round-over bits.
4) Specialized Bits- These bits do not fit into one of the above categories and have more specialized purposes including the Key Hole, Raised Panel, and T-Slot bits.

Carbide versus HSS bits

Most of the bits you will find available in hardware stores are carbide (short for tungsten carbide) tipped. These router bits are made of a very hard material that stays sharp longer than steel and is resistant to heat. However, this type of router bit can chip and is very expensive (this is why most of the bits are tipped and not made completely of carbide).

High Speed Steel (HSS) bits have been around longer but are not as readily available as the carbide bits. An HSS router bit is not as expensive but will dull fairly quickly. The HSS router bit is more suited for occasional work while a carbide router bit is meant for greater use, lasting 20 times longer than the HSS router bit.

How to Take Care of Router Bits

To keep your router bit set in good shape, you will want to do small amounts
of cutting at a time. This not only keeps you away from overheating, but will also extend the life of the router bit. Always use the shortest and widest bit possible for your project. This will again prevent overheating and will also avoid chattering.

Always keep your router bits clean and free from pitch and in good condition to avoid dulling. Remove any pitch and tar from the router bit (if not removed, it will cause the bit to unevenly bounce on the surface). Commercial bit cleaner can be used to remove pitch and tar; however, a scrap piece of wood will usually do the trick. This will help keep your router bits in good working order.

The parts of a router bit, the types of bits, the difference between HSS bits and carbide bits, and the proper care of router bits are all important concepts to understand when selecting your own router bit set. This basic knowledge will
help you know what you need in a router bit set and how to use it properly.

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Build your own Router

by Brett Thomas

Here at bit-tech, it's easy to get lost in the shuffle of bigger, faster, better hardware. Upgrading is great and all, but it leaves us with one very big problem - what do we do with all those spare parts?!

Months ago, we gave our resident Linux zealot supporter Ken Gypen a spotlight to show you how your old hardware could be turned into a low-power and high-utility home server. Since that point, we've had numerous ways to expand the use of both the server and Linux in general in your home, and it's really come down to what we wanted to cover next.

Now, we've covered tweaking, we've covered the command line and we've even covered wireless. But we've ignored one of the top selling points of Linux - security. After all, if you already have a full-fledged Linux server, you can easily replace that hardware router cluttering up your desk!

Of course, setting up a home router is not everyone's cup of tea - but it's not just about this project. Today, Ken is going to introduce some of the most powerful security and networking tools to allow you to start building an entire home or SOHO (Small Office / Home Office) network from the ground up with security in mind.

Some of this gets very, very complex. Parts of it, for the sake of getting you a working project to aim towards, have to be condensed to the point that they're almost "cut and paste this into your terminal." Consider this the Linux Wired Networking 201 - we're going to use this as the building block to some pretty advanced concepts in the future, including building an entire house-wide media network. We'll also cover (in a separate article) parts of what the more "glossed over" parts really do. Of course, you're always welcome to ask in the forums and get an edge on the next set of tutorials!

All set? Then strap in and get ready to learn about networking as we build a home router from scratch that will put "out of the box" networking to shame. Get to it, Ken!

Introduction

A lot of people have been building their own home servers based upon Ubuntu, a user friendly Linux distribution. The brave souls among them even tweaked some bits on their completed builds. Now, it's time to take it a step further.

Does this look complex?  It's not!

Does this look complex? It's not!

In this next article we'll be adding a bit of functionality to our server, transforming it into a router with an integrated firewall. But of course you can also build a entirely new box for it, like I did. I used a minimal Debian install so I could start with a fresh system.

Due to the complex nature of iptables, the package that controls all the routing and filtering goodness, it will be required to have some basic knowledge about all the CLI capabilities on offer in Linux. Because all the iptables rules and settings will be entered through commands, a BASH script will be used to define the configuration.

Aren't you glad we covered all of that previously?

Hardware and network configuration

Before we can start coding our own router, we need to build it hardware-wise. If you already have the home server built from our first article, you're most of the way there and you can ignore the next paragraph.

The requirements for the system are next to none. Linux based routers have been running on (passive) 80486 or the first generation of Pentium 120 processors for ages. Memory requirements are equally minuscule, requiring next to nothing for RAM. If the system is able to boot the OS, it'll be able to perform the routing duties. This is because routing and filtering is a part of the kernel, the core of the system.

Because we will be routing between two networks, we'll require two different network interface cards (NICs) in the system. One card will be connected to your cable modem and will be attached to the external network. The other one will be connected to the internal network through a switch or hub.

For the convenience of the LAN users, we'll also add a DHCP and a DNS server to the router. With this handy little addition, you won't be required to remember all of the IP addresses of your internal systems in the future - just their host names. There's also an added advantage when you go to add more systems in the future.

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Clearing - No Time To Slouch!

It's that time of year again. All these images in the starring role of children, reeling from the joy of getting your grade 4. And you have not done so. You have not only to achieve university of their choice said that he had to arrive when the place was offered earlier this year. Do not despair, to see how his new opportunity. + There will be 30,000 seats to offer in the cleanup, some of them in places surprisingly good. They will be examined by 30000 people faced the same situation as you are. And some of them find a place in a course that is much more to their liking that his original course.These lucky people rarely appear in national newspapers. But universities are penalized for not completing their undergraduate suitable places with students and universities so the problem may be your chance to get stuck in and grab a place at university want.However you first have to take a realistic look to what they have achieved in the summer exams. If you have bombed completely, you probably need a radical re-think. Should you try again, re-take their exams and apply for the same type of course next year? Or should it aim for a different or inferior to the competition? Or just forget the idea of going to college and find a job or a job-related training course? But if you only have lost his bid for a couple of points, and qualify for the type of course you want to do, you are still with a chance to start their course this September. But ACT NOW! Start with the offer you just lose. His first telephone call was due to the admissions office at the university who made the offer (both universities, if an insurance company had offered too). They can still admit that this year, despite its results - is not true and not bank on it, but definitely worth a crack. Sometimes they are being overwhelmed with students because everyone has the right grades and that if you are totally inflexible. But if almost everyone has lost its bid, then the course could have students and can hardly be pleased to you. So, if they do not ask, how will ever know? If not, go to Clear. Remember that universities with spare parts locations act as carriers with spare seats - offered at a discount. Therefore, universities with spare parts places will accept grades who have not accepted earlier this year, to fill many places as possible to teach students - opportunity.The his first message in cleaning it - act quickly. Of the 30000 places Compensation, surely must be one with his name on it, maybe even one in a hard-to-get underway. But you want to get in front of others. If the place in a course has passed a couple of minutes before you are on the phone, is all for year.How to get cracking? UCAS lists of all courses available through mechanisms of this year on August 14 to September 12. The information is also published in various forms in the national press, and if you want to study locally, check out the local press, radio and television. If you want to talk to someone at your school or college must have staff available, and DCSF runs a helpline (0808 100 8000) free, independent advice. Universities often have seats available to staff specially units admission and open days to help you during Clearing.One warning not get hassled to accept a place that you are not happy with. It is a waste of time and money (and yours!) If the license during the first year because it is in the wrong place or in the wrong assumption - and, unfortunately, cleaning students are much more likely to leave within among the first to other years. Therefore, finding out what they can about the universities you are interested in Check out and make your own list. Direct contact universities. Keep focused. Keep shopping. Do not miss a holiday, a party or get a job on the road. Do it yourself, do not leave their parents (just shows that you are alive). Loads of other people will be on the phone. The race is the swiftest.Finally (hopefully) the success! A university offers the place you want. You give them your number compensation. UCAS sends an official letter when everything is done and dusted. And you are in this year!
Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/education-articles/clearing-no-time-to-slouch-529825.html

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Why Carbide Gravers Win Over Steel Gravers Everytime

In recent years there has been great controversy over whether to use a carbide most serious of a steel more serious. Often the wrong grade of tungsten carbide is used when the manufacture of carbide gravers and, therefore, its quality is undermined. If the correct degree of carbide be elected if there is no reason ever has to use a steel more serious again.Tungsten Carbide for many years has proven to be a reliable partner and effective material for the manufacture of cutting tools . The main reasons for their excellent performance is that extreme hardness can be achieved tungsten carbide and ability to continue to retain their properties, even when glow red hot. Some knowledge of the materials is necessary to select the degree of application required. Tungsten Carbide is a fragile material and we must be careful to avoid damage to the forefront chipping - this is where the correct degree of selection is more important to provide a material that will have a good performance in the task and resist wear Repeated operations. A large amount of time we must take tests in various grades of tungsten carbide to achieve optimal for use with carbide gravers.In the main, performance is subject to the toughness and hardness of the material relationship and this may be modified by adapting material used for the production of tungsten carbide powder. Hard particles of tungsten carbide can be produced in a wide range of grain sizes smaller size of the grain harder TC alloy will be. The other main constituent is the cement that holds the TC particles inside the structure and this is usually the metal cobalt, adjusting the amount of cobalt in the structure this can have an effect of increasing the resistance as the amount of cobalt up increases.Summing tungsten carbide can be adjusted in hardness, strength of varying the amount of cobalt and grain size of particles TC. This will give you a wide range of adjustment of hardness, from about 800 to Vickers hardness in excess of 2500 Vickers hardness. With this wide variation in hardness and toughness available can be seen that there is much room for an inappropriate degree of carbide to be supplied for use as carbide graver.If the correct degree is elected tungsten carbide then here are the top five benefits carbide gravers made over steel gravers: 1. Gravers Carbide lasts 100 times longer. This means that work out cheaper in the long run.2. Gravers Carbide cut even harder materials. You are not limited to what can be cut, even high degree of surveillance personnel, French, etc. Arbors clock steel gravers that can not touch3. Very exceeding transferred to finish their work. Maintains a much higher level of Polish being transferred in its work.4. Carbide Gravers more stay longer. Den rise to more time working and less on resharpening.5. Cut faster with less effort. Some people have described as cuts as "a knife through butter"
Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/education-articles/why-carbide-gravers-win-over-steel-gravers-everytime-531163.html

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Pferd tungsten carbide burrs resist impact

By designing in two innovative, high performance cut patterns to its range of tungsten carbide burrs, Pferd said more heavy duty metal is removed while tool wear is reduced.

Pferd has designed in two innovative, high performance cut patterns to its range of tungsten carbide burrs The company claims that the new burrs will benefit heavy-duty applications, such as in foundries, shipyards and steel construction

Designated 3R and 3RS, the new burrs incorporate the optimum alignment of all manufacturing parameters, as follows.

* Perfect match of tooth geometry.

* Number of teeth.

* Helix angle.

* Rake angle.

* True-running precision.

The end result, said Pferd to manufacturingtalk, is a tungsten carbide burr developed to meet ultra-exacting machining demands, while simultaneously minimising tool wear, tool breakage, splintering and cutter head cracking.

The Pferd Catalogue number 202 features the full range of tungsten carbide burrs, HSS rotary cutters, hole cutters and hole saws.

Pferd: contact details and other news
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