Latest Hare & Forbes catalogue turned up in the mail box today - no particular surprises in there (other than it being a bit thinner than usual). Always fun finding woodworking catalogues and magazines in the letterbox :)
- Apparently the latest Triton saw is currently winging its way to me - perhaps tomorrow (subject to the whims of the courier). It will be very interesting to see this latest saw and how it compares to the saw it is replacing.
- My review of the Pro Drill Press Table is now in the hands of the editor of Australian Wood Review, so hopefully it passes muster. Not sure which issue it will be in, but I’d guess the next one.
- I was thinking about celebrating the 1st year of Stu’s Shed with a bit of a BBQ, but it now turns out that my Holmesglen Tafe course (Introduction to Triton Woodworking) is running this weekend coming. Bummer for the BBQ, but the course is enjoyable, and the money never goes astray. I’ll have to give more thought to what to do (and when) to mark the occasion.
- The 30th video (and last to come out in the site’s 1st year) is currently in editing - the assembly process of the Pro Drill Press Table.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Miscellaneous Catchup
router bits used for box-making
This month we are detailing a couple of router bits used for box-making. There are more than just a couple that can be used in the whole genre, including ones for wooden hinges, for template carving the box itself, and obviously joints- dovetails and the like.
The first is used during assembly of the box, to insert the base. There is nothing overly complex about the concept - the bit cuts a groove around the bottom of the box to a controlled depth and width. Into this can be inserted a simple flat base which is the thickness of the slot, or it can be more elaborate using a flat bottomed cove bit (or a rebate bit) to effectively create a raised panel to fit the slot.
The bit is manufactured by Carb-i-tool exclusively for the Gifkins Dovetail Jig. It is boxmaking cutter #1 in their catalogue. (www.gifkins.com.au)
The second cutter is quite interesting. It is simply a small, solid carbide spiral bit, which is used to produce the smoothest finish possible while splitting a box from its lid.
Shown here to give you a sense of scale. It is a 1/4″ bit, so either a 1/4″ router, or a 1/2″ with a reducing collet will be required. It is also highly advisable to use this bit in a router table, and take multiple passes until the lid is cut free.
Router Bits Basics A
A router bit is a tool for woodworking giving a quality finish to woodwork. It cuts wood providing a way to give a clean and even a decorative edge to woodwork. The following is some basic information about router bits to get you started in your woodworking efforts.
The Parts of a Router Bit
Here are the there main parts of a router bit:
1) The shank- the part of the router bit that is inserted into the collet (the sleeve of the router).
2) The cutting edge- this part cuts and removes the wood. They are available in several sizes and shapes.
3) The pilot- the guide for the router in order to make a correct cut. It can be an extension of the shank or a ball bearing attachment.
The Different Kinds of Router Bits
While there are over 50 router bit profiles, here are the four basic types of router bits:
1) Grooving Bits- These bits make a groove in the piece of wood. This type of bit is commonly used for street address signs for homes. Different types of grooving bits include the V-Groove, the Round-Nose and the Straight Bits.
2) Joinery Bits- Router bits that help make several different types of joints. This type of router bit includes the Finger Joint, the Drawer Lock, the Rile and Stile, and Dovetail Bits.
3) Edge Bits- Bits used to create different-shaped edges in woodwork. Examples of these types of bits include the Beading, Flush, and Round-over bits.
4) Specialized Bits- These bits do not fit into one of the above categories and have more specialized purposes including the Key Hole, Raised Panel, and T-Slot bits.
Carbide versus HSS bits
Most of the bits you will find available in hardware stores are carbide (short for tungsten carbide) tipped. These router bits are made of a very hard material that stays sharp longer than steel and is resistant to heat. However, this type of router bit can chip and is very expensive (this is why most of the bits are tipped and not made completely of carbide).
High Speed Steel (HSS) bits have been around longer but are not as readily available as the carbide bits. An HSS router bit is not as expensive but will dull fairly quickly. The HSS router bit is more suited for occasional work while a carbide router bit is meant for greater use, lasting 20 times longer than the HSS router bit.
How to Take Care of Router Bits
To keep your router bit set in good shape, you will want to do small amounts
of cutting at a time. This not only keeps you away from overheating, but will also extend the life of the router bit. Always use the shortest and widest bit possible for your project. This will again prevent overheating and will also avoid chattering.
Always keep your router bits clean and free from pitch and in good condition to avoid dulling. Remove any pitch and tar from the router bit (if not removed, it will cause the bit to unevenly bounce on the surface). Commercial bit cleaner can be used to remove pitch and tar; however, a scrap piece of wood will usually do the trick. This will help keep your router bits in good working order.
The parts of a router bit, the types of bits, the difference between HSS bits and carbide bits, and the proper care of router bits are all important concepts to understand when selecting your own router bit set. This basic knowledge will
help you know what you need in a router bit set and how to use it properly.
Build your own Router
by Brett Thomas
Here at bit-tech, it's easy to get lost in the shuffle of bigger, faster, better hardware. Upgrading is great and all, but it leaves us with one very big problem - what do we do with all those spare parts?!
Months ago, we gave our resident Linux zealot supporter Ken Gypen a spotlight to show you how your old hardware could be turned into a low-power and high-utility home server. Since that point, we've had numerous ways to expand the use of both the server and Linux in general in your home, and it's really come down to what we wanted to cover next.
Now, we've covered tweaking, we've covered the command line and we've even covered wireless. But we've ignored one of the top selling points of Linux - security. After all, if you already have a full-fledged Linux server, you can easily replace that hardware router cluttering up your desk!
Of course, setting up a home router is not everyone's cup of tea - but it's not just about this project. Today, Ken is going to introduce some of the most powerful security and networking tools to allow you to start building an entire home or SOHO (Small Office / Home Office) network from the ground up with security in mind.
Some of this gets very, very complex. Parts of it, for the sake of getting you a working project to aim towards, have to be condensed to the point that they're almost "cut and paste this into your terminal." Consider this the Linux Wired Networking 201 - we're going to use this as the building block to some pretty advanced concepts in the future, including building an entire house-wide media network. We'll also cover (in a separate article) parts of what the more "glossed over" parts really do. Of course, you're always welcome to ask in the forums and get an edge on the next set of tutorials!
All set? Then strap in and get ready to learn about networking as we build a home router from scratch that will put "out of the box" networking to shame. Get to it, Ken!
Introduction
A lot of people have been building their own home servers based upon Ubuntu, a user friendly Linux distribution. The brave souls among them even tweaked some bits on their completed builds. Now, it's time to take it a step further.
Does this look complex? It's not!
Due to the complex nature of iptables, the package that controls all the routing and filtering goodness, it will be required to have some basic knowledge about all the CLI capabilities on offer in Linux. Because all the iptables rules and settings will be entered through commands, a BASH script will be used to define the configuration.
Aren't you glad we covered all of that previously?
Hardware and network configuration
Before we can start coding our own router, we need to build it hardware-wise. If you already have the home server built from our first article, you're most of the way there and you can ignore the next paragraph.The requirements for the system are next to none. Linux based routers have been running on (passive) 80486 or the first generation of Pentium 120 processors for ages. Memory requirements are equally minuscule, requiring next to nothing for RAM. If the system is able to boot the OS, it'll be able to perform the routing duties. This is because routing and filtering is a part of the kernel, the core of the system.
Because we will be routing between two networks, we'll require two different network interface cards (NICs) in the system. One card will be connected to your cable modem and will be attached to the external network. The other one will be connected to the internal network through a switch or hub.
For the convenience of the LAN users, we'll also add a DHCP and a DNS server to the router. With this handy little addition, you won't be required to remember all of the IP addresses of your internal systems in the future - just their host names. There's also an added advantage when you go to add more systems in the future.
Clearing - No Time To Slouch!
It's that time of year again. All these images in the starring role of children, reeling from the joy of getting your grade 4. And you have not done so. You have not only to achieve university of their choice said that he had to arrive when the place was offered earlier this year. Do not despair, to see how his new opportunity. + There will be 30,000 seats to offer in the cleanup, some of them in places surprisingly good. They will be examined by 30000 people faced the same situation as you are. And some of them find a place in a course that is much more to their liking that his original course.These lucky people rarely appear in national newspapers. But universities are penalized for not completing their undergraduate suitable places with students and universities so the problem may be your chance to get stuck in and grab a place at university want.However you first have to take a realistic look to what they have achieved in the summer exams. If you have bombed completely, you probably need a radical re-think. Should you try again, re-take their exams and apply for the same type of course next year? Or should it aim for a different or inferior to the competition? Or just forget the idea of going to college and find a job or a job-related training course? But if you only have lost his bid for a couple of points, and qualify for the type of course you want to do, you are still with a chance to start their course this September. But ACT NOW! Start with the offer you just lose. His first telephone call was due to the admissions office at the university who made the offer (both universities, if an insurance company had offered too). They can still admit that this year, despite its results - is not true and not bank on it, but definitely worth a crack. Sometimes they are being overwhelmed with students because everyone has the right grades and that if you are totally inflexible. But if almost everyone has lost its bid, then the course could have students and can hardly be pleased to you. So, if they do not ask, how will ever know? If not, go to Clear. Remember that universities with spare parts locations act as carriers with spare seats - offered at a discount. Therefore, universities with spare parts places will accept grades who have not accepted earlier this year, to fill many places as possible to teach students - opportunity.The his first message in cleaning it - act quickly. Of the 30000 places Compensation, surely must be one with his name on it, maybe even one in a hard-to-get underway. But you want to get in front of others. If the place in a course has passed a couple of minutes before you are on the phone, is all for year.How to get cracking? UCAS lists of all courses available through mechanisms of this year on August 14 to September 12. The information is also published in various forms in the national press, and if you want to study locally, check out the local press, radio and television. If you want to talk to someone at your school or college must have staff available, and DCSF runs a helpline (0808 100 8000) free, independent advice. Universities often have seats available to staff specially units admission and open days to help you during Clearing.One warning not get hassled to accept a place that you are not happy with. It is a waste of time and money (and yours!) If the license during the first year because it is in the wrong place or in the wrong assumption - and, unfortunately, cleaning students are much more likely to leave within among the first to other years. Therefore, finding out what they can about the universities you are interested in Check out and make your own list. Direct contact universities. Keep focused. Keep shopping. Do not miss a holiday, a party or get a job on the road. Do it yourself, do not leave their parents (just shows that you are alive). Loads of other people will be on the phone. The race is the swiftest.Finally (hopefully) the success! A university offers the place you want. You give them your number compensation. UCAS sends an official letter when everything is done and dusted. And you are in this year!
Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/education-articles/clearing-no-time-to-slouch-529825.html
Why Carbide Gravers Win Over Steel Gravers Everytime
In recent years there has been great controversy over whether to use a carbide most serious of a steel more serious. Often the wrong grade of tungsten carbide is used when the manufacture of carbide gravers and, therefore, its quality is undermined. If the correct degree of carbide be elected if there is no reason ever has to use a steel more serious again.Tungsten Carbide for many years has proven to be a reliable partner and effective material for the manufacture of cutting tools . The main reasons for their excellent performance is that extreme hardness can be achieved tungsten carbide and ability to continue to retain their properties, even when glow red hot. Some knowledge of the materials is necessary to select the degree of application required. Tungsten Carbide is a fragile material and we must be careful to avoid damage to the forefront chipping - this is where the correct degree of selection is more important to provide a material that will have a good performance in the task and resist wear Repeated operations. A large amount of time we must take tests in various grades of tungsten carbide to achieve optimal for use with carbide gravers.In the main, performance is subject to the toughness and hardness of the material relationship and this may be modified by adapting material used for the production of tungsten carbide powder. Hard particles of tungsten carbide can be produced in a wide range of grain sizes smaller size of the grain harder TC alloy will be. The other main constituent is the cement that holds the TC particles inside the structure and this is usually the metal cobalt, adjusting the amount of cobalt in the structure this can have an effect of increasing the resistance as the amount of cobalt up increases.Summing tungsten carbide can be adjusted in hardness, strength of varying the amount of cobalt and grain size of particles TC. This will give you a wide range of adjustment of hardness, from about 800 to Vickers hardness in excess of 2500 Vickers hardness. With this wide variation in hardness and toughness available can be seen that there is much room for an inappropriate degree of carbide to be supplied for use as carbide graver.If the correct degree is elected tungsten carbide then here are the top five benefits carbide gravers made over steel gravers: 1. Gravers Carbide lasts 100 times longer. This means that work out cheaper in the long run.2. Gravers Carbide cut even harder materials. You are not limited to what can be cut, even high degree of surveillance personnel, French, etc. Arbors clock steel gravers that can not touch3. Very exceeding transferred to finish their work. Maintains a much higher level of Polish being transferred in its work.4. Carbide Gravers more stay longer. Den rise to more time working and less on resharpening.5. Cut faster with less effort. Some people have described as cuts as "a knife through butter"
Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/education-articles/why-carbide-gravers-win-over-steel-gravers-everytime-531163.html
Pferd tungsten carbide burrs resist impact
By designing in two innovative, high performance cut patterns to its range of tungsten carbide burrs, Pferd said more heavy duty metal is removed while tool wear is reduced.
Pferd has designed in two innovative, high performance cut patterns to its range of tungsten carbide burrs The company claims that the new burrs will benefit heavy-duty applications, such as in foundries, shipyards and steel construction
Designated 3R and 3RS, the new burrs incorporate the optimum alignment of all manufacturing parameters, as follows.
* Perfect match of tooth geometry.
* Number of teeth.
* Helix angle.
* Rake angle.
* True-running precision.
The end result, said Pferd to manufacturingtalk, is a tungsten carbide burr developed to meet ultra-exacting machining demands, while simultaneously minimising tool wear, tool breakage, splintering and cutter head cracking.
The Pferd Catalogue number 202 features the full range of tungsten carbide burrs, HSS rotary cutters, hole cutters and hole saws.
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Saturday, August 23, 2008
Amana Tool Unveils In-Tech™ Series of Replaceable Knife Router Bits
(Farmingdale, N.Y.) – Amana Tool, manufacturers of carbide woodworking tools, today announced its In-Tech™ line of replaceable carbide insert knife router bits that bring industrial woodworking technology to portable router machines. The series comprises nine router bits that feature industrial-quality replaceable carbide knives instead of standard brazed carbide tips. In-Tech router bits are priced comparable to standard router bits but last up to four times longer, saving users money during the life of the tool as knives are replaced rather than the entire tool.
The In-Tech replaceable knives are made of a harder sub-micro grade carbide than those used on standard brazed router bits. This higher grade of carbide significantly increases the life of the router bit and makes the bits ideal for use in harder types of materials such as MDF and chipboard. By replacing worn knives instead of sharpening standard carbide tipped bits, router bit dimensions, cutting quality and accuracy remain constant during the life of the tool.
Amana Tool technical director, Frank Misiti, said, “We take great pride in our customer-focused innovation and are pleased to provide industrial-quality cutting tools and precision for the home user at an affordable price. With the unveiling of our In-Tech series, we’re now ensuring that our customers can achieve the best results possible while saving labor, time and money.”
In-Tech router bits have a 1/4” shank and are available in nine popular profiles The In-Tech router bits are sold individually starting at $16.88 USD, and replacement knives start at $3.08 USD through Amana Tool’s authorized distributors. For the location nearest you, visit www.amanatool.com.
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Chatter-Free End Mills Improve Throughput And Finish
Chatterfree end mills from Iscar are designed to eliminate chatter problems in milling operations. The cutters' variable-pitch flute pattern eliminates harmonic vibration, the main source of chatter. This enables faster cutting and finer finish in rough or finish slotting, shoulder milling and cavity milling. In addition, users report longer edge life because of reduced chatter, the company says.
The chatter-free feature is available in both solid carbide end mills and tips in the company's Multi-Master replaceable tip line. Diameter range is 6 mm to 20 mm (0.250" to 0.750") for the solid carbide end mills and 8 to 20 mm (0.312" to 0.750") for Multi-Master tips.
These end mills are especially useful for low-power machines with ISO40 or BT40 adaptations. The solid carbide version can handle full-slot machining of as large as 2 × diameter. Depth capability on the replaceable-tip version is more limited since the active length is shorter.
In full slotting applications on alloy steel, the solid carbide version easily handles 0.03 to 0.05 feed rates at 180 to 220 mm/min surface speed and 2 × diameter depth of cut.
Some Information about End Mills (Rotational Cutters) for CNC Machines
I receive a healthy dose of questions about end mills and which ones that I use. I usually respond with answers like, my end mill will probably differ from your end mill. So, what is this thing called an end mill anyhow. If you are new to CNC machining and routing, you may have never heard of the thing. I could imagine googling something like, "CNC bits". Using the terminology "bit" is not all that incorrect. Bits are commonly referred to as drill bits, but routers use router bits. If you're looking to cut various metals and composites, end mills are the tools of choice. However, end mills will also work on wood, depending on the type of end mill selected.
Let's talk about the various types of end mills. There are up-cut, down-cut, compression cut end mills with varying numbers of flutes. End mills and bits have shanks with varying diameters and cutters of varying diameters also. Materials also vary with end mills and for appropriate applications. Finally, the shape of end mills vary depending on the application.
What can you do with an end mill? Well, primarily, end mills are intended to cut horizontally. That's the beauty of end mills. They can also plunge (drill) into the material, but this is actually hard on end mills, unless the end mill has this feature. You will probably see many CNC machines ramping down as it cuts a horizontal edge to prevent excessive wear on the end mill.
Up-cut, down-cut and compression cut determine the way the chips (cut material) are ejected and the smoothness of the surface. With an up-cut end mill, the chips will be ejected upward and the bottom of the material will be smooth. The down-cut end mill is the reverse by puching the chips downward and the top of the material is smooth. You can guess what the compression end mill does... It creates a smooth surface on top and bottom, which is perfect for pre-laminated woods.
You will typically find that the end mills vary in size ranging from micro dimeters to upwards of one inch or more. The end mill pictured on the left has a 1/8" shank (the shaft that is inserted into the spindle collet). The selection of size will depend on your application. Of course, large diameter end mills will not create perfect inside corners... actually none will since all end mills have some diameter. There is one exception. however. There are end mills with points that can create great bottom corners, but I will discuss that below. You will find that, depending on your application, a single general purpose end mill will suffice. The size of the end mill will also determine how fast you can cut the material (feedrates). Larger end mills can remove more material per revolution than a small end mill. Respectively, if you push a tiny end mill too fast, you will break it.
Flutes are the cutting edges that are wrapped around the end mill, like a spiral. the image below shows a two flute end mill which can be identified by the very end of the end mill. The more flutes on the end mill, the smoother the edge finish will be. One important aspect of a great number of flutes is the capacity of chips it is able to eject, so the more flutes on an end mill, the slower a feetrate must be. The end result is finer chips. You will also find that there is a helix angle to these flutes. They can be as straight as vertical, or angled. The angle to select will depend on the material being cut.
End mills come in a variety of materials. The hardness of end mills determine the material to be cut and the cost of the end mill. Solid materials for end mills are HSS (High Speed Steel) and Carbide. Carbide is the harder of the two, will last longer and can handle faster feedrates. To make carbide even better, there are various coating material applied. The gold coating on the left is TiN. No, not the material of cola cans, but a very resilient material (Titanium Nitride) that can withstand higher heat and privides a bit more hardness. Other coatings include: TiCN (Titanium Carconitride) which is great for various metals, TiAIN (Titanium Aluminum Nitride) which is
even better for metals (not aluminum which is in the coating itself), AITiN (Aluminum Titanium Nitride) with similar characteristics as TiAIN, and finally Diamond, but don't get this for your loved one, unless they need a tool. Don't use diamon on metals either, but this material coating is superial on other materials especially composites and graphite. I'm currently testing this on cutting my MDF (so far so good). I actually got this recommendation from a user on the site.
The shapes of end mills vary extremely widely and is the most important aspect for your application. The shape of the end mill will determine the shape of the final cut and even on the material being cut. There are round nose end mills that look similar to drill bits and are great for plunging. V-shaped end mills have a great variety of their own shapes. A long bv-shaped end is great for wood carving and a shallow v-shaped end mill is great for lettering. There is also the sqare end end mills that create a nice flush bottom of a centercut. The applications are endless. One final type of end mill that is worth mentioning is the roughing mill also called the hog mill. The end mill is great for steels and can handle fast feedrates.
Easy To Do Stained Glass
The tools needed to create your own stained glass are tools such as glass grinders and saws, drawing tools, foiling tools, grinder accessories, hand tools, leading tools, glass cutters, soldering irons and solder.
Quality Stained Glass Tools are a Must
To keep frustrations to a minimum your glass cutters need to be extremely sharp at all times. When cutting curves it’s easy to do if you have a lot of patience and cut away little bits at the time. Trying to cut a large piece while going around a corner can be disastrous.
How the Stained Glass Tools are Used
Foiling tools are used for stained glass projects that have foil over the lead. It’s a tedious process and requires specialized tools to make it easy to do. Leading tools assist in making the lead fit as precisely and snugly along the glass as possible.
For a window you would want the most precise fit for the sake of weather proofing. Soldering irons and solder are used to connect the joints of the leading. The leading meets at certain angles. The solder fills in any gaps caused at the connection points and allows for a smooth appearance overall.
Air Tools or Electric Power Tools? Which is Better?
Many people wonder if using air tools is worth the cost purchasing an air compressor, hoses, and the air tools. Why not just get an electric impact wrench or electric drill? Sometimes electric tools are a great choice but there are many reasons why air tools are superior.
First of all, you have the option of using air tools in a wet environment. You can’t get electrocuted with an air tool. Feel free to drag that air hose through a puddle and stand in it with bare feet. No problem.
Compressed air won’t hurt you. Also, air compressors are a portable power source. You can operate your air tool anywhere you can haul your portable air compressor.
If you are out on a remote jobsite, electricity can be a problem. However, with an air compressor and the right air tools, you are in business. Another reason is air tools are generally more robust than their electric cousins. Most air tools are built out of metal and can withstand a substantial impact.
Today, most electric tools today are almost all totally plastic. Finally, air tools are far more powerful than electric tools. If you really have some tough lug nuts to loosen, nothing beats a 1/2″ impact wrench to show that nut who’s the boss!
Power Tools Tips - How to Use Power Tools
Term power tool is used for a tool with a motor. Power tools are used for some specific purposes or operations that are not possible to perform manually. It is generally used to reduce the work of operator. Drill, router, electric sander, lathe and saws are some common types of power tools. Power tools may easily perform a complex or difficult task.
Electric-powered tools can cause several cuts, punctures, pinches, amputations and electrocutions. Power tools can seriously injure or sometimes kill the user if they are not aware of all its uses. Users should learn about different types of power tools before start using tools. They should gain some knowledge about its safety precautions.
Users should verify the electrical test label at the time of purchasing new one. They should know all applications, limitations and potential hazards of power tools. Power tools must be operated as per the instructions of manufacturer. They should timely inspect tool for loose or broken switches and other problems.
Try to purchase a high quality power tool. Power tools are available cordless as well as corded. You can choose as per your requirements. Generally cordless tools will satisfy the needs of any user. You should compare the features of same tool with other competitors. You should follow user manual at the time of using power tools.
5 Tips On How To Buy The Right Power Tools
Power tools cost big bucks and if you’re buying a whole set, you need to look for cool deals on tools because you need to save big on cash with these babies. Here is a neat questionnaire that will aid you in your buying decision and choice:
- What kind of a power tools user are you? This is the first question you must ask yourself - if you need to use power tools at home, you are a light user; if you need them for craftsmanship, you are a medium user; if you need them for industrial use, you are a heavy, powerful power tools user. Remember, home power tools are much, much lighter in weight compared to the ones that have more power. However, the heavier tools feature a better design, are easy to use and last much longer than the home power tools.
- Should I buy the cheaper, no-brand name power tools? No, you shouldn’t. The market is flooded with cheap power tools and it’d do you a world of good to stick to the branded variety. The unbranded power tools may cost half the amount, but they do not last as long, are less efficient and less safe than branded variety. But you may not have to fork out a whole lot of cash if you shop for the reconditioned branded variety online - just run a search on power tool deals on your favorite search engine!
- Should I buy a cordless power tool or one that is corded? Well, the power tools with cords have more power but the cordless ones are more versatile and are getting more popular by the day. In fact, there’s this new battery technology developed in Milwaukee that adds more power to the cordless variety, while reducing their weight. Experts opine that you should go with the cordless variety if they feature enough power for your use.
- Is the power tool that I am about to buy covered against defects? Normally, you won’t have a problem with power tools, but just ensure that the power tool you are buying is covered against any working defects.
These were the questions you need to ask yourself before buying power tools. But, there is still one more question left which is the most important of them all:
- Do I necessarily have to buy a brand new power tool? No, you don’t. Nowadays, perfectly reconditioned power tools are available on a select few online “tools deals” stores. The power tools available on these stores are reconditioned, work efficiently, carry the requisite warranties and are available at low, low rates. You’d be amazed to see the prices on an online store - so why don’t you get wise and pick up a reconditioned power tool?
Okay, now the questionnaire is complete. Well, you have the answers, too, and you are the one to decide. So, go right ahead and decide!
Friday, August 22, 2008
Table Saws: Fixtures In The Work Shop
In the world of woodworking, furniture building and light construction there are many different saws available. Which saw is chosen for a particular job depends on what type of wood is used, what kind of cuts are being made and, of course, what kind of woodworking project is at hand. As most people know, just about every saw will make a clean straight cut if it is sharp and if it is used in the correct manner. But using the proper saw in a certain situation can make all the difference.
Table saws of the larger size, such as those used by an experienced amateur and the professional, can be used to cut sheets of plywood and framing lumber for new construction. But this saw certainly is not the best for trying to follow a scroll pattern. Both of these saws are available in bench models, but the similarity ends there.
Anatomy of A Table Saw
A table saw is separated, by definition, because of the table on which it is used. This platform is a cutting surface that comes in various heights and sizes. In the workshop of a professional the floor model table saw is used for larger projects, usually to cut longer, straight lines and to produce cut lumber in larger amounts. This type of saw is also made in smaller sizes and may be found in home workshops and in the shops of professionals who concentrate on smaller projects. One of the key features of these small saws is portability.
When researching or buying table saws it is best to understand a few of the key features, such as the handle or arm on some saws that can be adjusted and moved to make cuts. Other saws are designed to tilt or change angles for mitre cuts and other special needs on trim, moulding or decorative work. There are even sliding table saws used by some for particular cuts and special projects.
Interchangeable blades are a key benefit of most table saws as well, allowing for use on different woods and on different projects. The course blade is used for particular types of wood and types of cut, while the finer blades may be used for smaller projects and finish work. The variety of blades available from saw manufacturers has increased dramatically over the past couple of decades. Table saw blades are available for special projects such as cutting tile or small stone, with water often introduced to reduce heat and help the cutting. Some saws and blades are even used to cut metal.
Table saws have a guide or “fence” that is the primary way of keeping the wood and the cut in line. Most experienced saw users will look closely at the fence or guide system when shopping for a table saw, because this will determine the quality of cut made. In addition, a good guide system can reduce the amount of labor and stress on the operator.
Professionals and experienced amateurs also take a long look at the motor size and construction since this is the heart of any good power saw. The best reviews of are unsolicited. The Web is a good place to look for blogs and forums that can help someone choose a good table saw. Following the advice of those with experience, plus choosing a reputable manufacturer, will generally lead to the purchase of a quality table saw.
Friday, July 11, 2008
Carbide Bur Manual Deburring with Orbitool
Manual Deburring with Orbitool
Instructional video on deburring cross holes by hand with J.W. Done Corp.'s Orbitool Deburring Tool.
Can deburr blind holes with no possible damage to either bore.
Types of carbides
Types of carbides
Ionic salts
Salt like carbides are formed by the metals of[1]
* group 1 (the alkali metals )
* group 2 (the alkaline earths )
* group 3 (scandium, yttrium and lanthanum)
* group 11(copper, silver and gold)
* group 12 (zinc ,cadmium and mercury)
* only aluminium from group 13, (gallium, indium and thallium do not appear to form carbides).
* lanthanides when forming MC2 and M2C3 carbides
* actinides when forming MC2 and M2C3 carbides
Most commonly they are salts of C22− and are called acetylides, ethynides, acetylenediides or very rarely, percarbides.
Some compounds contain other anionic species:[1]
* C4−, sometimes called methanides (or methides) because they hydrolyse to give methane gas.
* C34− ion, sometimes called sesquicarbides, they hydrolyse to give methylacetylene.
The naming of ionic carbides is not consistent and can be quite confusing.
Acetylides
The polyatomic ion C22− contains a triple bond between the two carbon atoms. Examples are the carbides of the alkali metals e.g. Na2C2, some alkaline earths, e.g. CaC2 and lanthanoids e.g. LaC2.[1] The C-C bond distance ranges from 109.2pm in CaC2 (similar to ethyne), to 130.3 pm in LaC2 and 134pm in UC2.[1] The bonding in LaC2 has been described in terms of LaIII with the extra electron delocalised into the antibonding orbital on C22−, explaining the metallic conduction
Machine tools
Carbide cutting surfaces are often useful when machining through materials such as carbon steel or stainless steel, as well as in situations where other tools would wear away, such as high-quantity production runs. Sometimes, carbide will leave a better finish on the part, and allow faster machining. Carbide tools can also withstand higher temperatures than standard high speed steel tools. The material is usually tungsten-carbide cobalt, also called "cemented carbide", a metal matrix composite where tungsten carbide particles are the aggregate and metallic cobalt serves as the matrix. The process of combining tungsten carbide with cobalt is referred to as sintering or Hot Isostatic Pressing (HIP). During this process cobalt eventually will be entering the liquid stage and WC grains (>> higher melting point) remain in the solid stage. As a result of this process cobalt is embedding/cementing the WC grains and thereby creates the metal matrix composite with its distinct material properties. The naturally ductile cobalt metal serves to offset the characteristic brittle behavior of the tungsten carbide ceramic, thus raising its toughness and durability. Such parameters of tungsten carbide can be changed significantly within the carbide manufacturers sphere of influence, primarily determined by grain size, cobalt content, dotation (e.g. alloy carbides) and carbon content.
Machining with carbide can be difficult, as carbide is more brittle than other tool materials, making it susceptible to chipping and breaking. To offset this, many manufacturers sell carbide inserts and matching insert holders. With this setup, the small carbide insert is held in place by a larger tool made of a less brittle material (usually steel). This gives the benefit of using carbide without the high cost of making the entire tool out of carbide. Most modern face mills use carbide inserts, as well as some lathe tools and endmills.
To increase the life of carbide tools, they are sometimes coated. Four such coatings are TiN (titanium nitride), TiC (titanium carbide), Ti(C)N (titanium carbide-nitride), and TiAlN (Titanium Aluminum Nitride). (Newer coatings, known as DLC (Diamond Like Coating) are beginning to surface, enabling the cutting power of diamond without the unwanted chemical reaction between real diamond and iron.) Most coatings generally increase a tool's hardness and/or lubricity. A coating allows the cutting edge of a tool to cleanly pass through the material without having the material gall (stick) to it. The coating also helps to decrease the temperature associated with the cutting process and increase the life of the tool. The coating is usually deposited via thermal CVD and, for certain applications, with the mechanical PVD method. However if the deposition is performed at too high temperature, an eta phase of a Co6W6C tertiary carbide forms at the interface between the carbide and the cobalt phase, facilitating adhesion failure of the coating.
Tungsten carbide
Tungsten carbide, WC, or tungsten semicarbide, W2C, is a chemical compound containing tungsten and carbon, similar to titanium carbide. Colloquially, tungsten carbide is often simply called carbide.
Chemical properties
There are two well characterized compounds of tungsten and carbon, WC and W2C. Both compounds may be present in coatings and the proportions can depend on the coating method, see e.g.[1]
WC can be prepared by reaction of tungsten metal and carbon at 1400-2000°C.[2] Other methods include a patented fluid bed process that reacts either tungsten metal or blue WO3 with CO/CO2 mixture and H2 between 900 and 1200°C.[3] Chemical vapor deposition methods that have been investigated include[2]:
* tungsten hexachloride with hydrogen, as reducing agent and methane as the source of carbon at 670°C
WCl6 + H2 + CH4 → WC + 6HCl
* reacting tungsten hexafluoride with hydrogen as reducing agent and methanol as source of carbon at 350°C
WF6 + H2 + CH3OH → WC + 6HF + H2O
At high temperatures WC decomposes to tungsten and carbon and this can occur during high temperature thermal spray e.g high velocity oxygen fuel (HVOF) and high energy plasma (HEP) methods.[4]
Oxidation of WC starts at 500-600°C.[2] It is resistant to acids and is only attacked by hydrofluoric acid/nitric acid (HF/HNO3) mixtures above room temperature.[2] It reacts with fluorine gas at room temperature and chlorine above 400°C and is unreactive to dry H2 up to its melting point.[2]
WC has been investigated for its potential use as a catalyst and it has been found to resemble platinum in its catalysis the production of water from hydrogen and oxygen at room temperature, the reduction of tungsten trioxide by hydrogen in the presence of water, and the isomerization of 2,2-dimethylpropane to 2-methylbutane.[5] It has been proposed as a replacement for the iridium catalyst in hydrazine powered satellite thrusters
Need a Carbide Tool or Carbide Burrs?
We are a carbide tool manufacturing and carbide burr repair / resharpening facility with a complete line of standard carbide tools as well as endless custom carbide burr requirements including: long shank carbide burrs, flexible shank carbide burrs, custom diameter carbide burrs, internal threaded carbide burrs, as well as custom fluting requirements for any carbide burr in our catalog. Don’t settle for a carbide tool that doesn’t fit the bill! Get the carbide burr you need for your job!
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